The company my husband works for, McKinsey organized an office retreat in Ethiopia. Held at the Sheraton in Addis Ababa, the capital. Life inside and outside the walls of this resort were contrasted way beyond my moral standards. This became apparent our first day there. We spent a couple hours riding around in the hotel taxi, getting lay of the land, culture and even doing a little shopping. As I absorbed my surroundings I became overwhelmed and surprised at how different their way of life was from mine.
Life in the City:
My First impressions were of grief and sadness, seeing so much poverty and homelessness. Tarps or fabric strung from stick to stick divided their living spaces and maybe even provided a little shade. Others more fortunate formed scrap metal square units with maybe a few rough cobble stones in the entry way to keep out the mud. Not a moment passed while we were out that I wasn't staring out the window, taking in everything I could. But in doing so becoming nearly if not completely overtaken by tears.
I could not hold back as I observed so many young children without proper shoes or nourishment. Anywhere you looked there were babies and young children playing in the streets only a few feet away from the busy traffic. My heart ached at the sight, I imagine much of the death rate is even caused by such circumstances.
Homeless mothers we would see on the streets looked at us, begging with their starving malnourished eyes for a way out. The same look from the commercials when I was 8 years old. Hasn't anything changed? In 20 years? Many would argue that they have, but I didn't see it. I wanted to empty my bank account for them, but had to settle for diapers or sometimes take out. Rich and I learned quick that we could not give money or even carry it with us. The early times when we'd reach for our purse to purchase something, people would hover with desperate stares. Even shop keepers argued and yelled at us to stop at their shop, for it was unfair to stop at his neighbors and not his.
At one point we were assaulted by three young men. The act took place within 6 seconds, Walking hand in hand we were at an instant forcefully separated. I was dissarrayed at one young mans greetings while two others quickly frisked Rich. Hands scooped every pocket but came out empty after a mild brawl with him. Rich was satisfied with his strength against them but quite frustrated as he watched them run away. No one hurt, just a ripped shirt pocket to show for a desperate attempt to get ahead in life, us being the victims.After taking her picture I gave 1 bihr (like a quarter) to a little girl who quickly snatched the rest of the bills from my hand. I tried to get them back and motioned to the other kids that I wanted to share with. But she just disappeared into the crowd only to be seen moments later smiling and waving with her proud mother. Needless to say, from these first to days we learned how to get around and a little on how to safely serve or give to those in need.
Country life:
We ventured out to Wonchi crater lake (created by a volcano) and into the countryside. It was so beautiful to us, considering the drab dry desert life we are use to lately. Everything is green and lush. Ethiopia has had a droubt lately so a nice change for them I'm sure. Unlike in the city, grass sprang up where there would otherwise be mud, providing a cleaner thoroughfair. Life here in the country was still very busy but in a more productive way. People in the city make a living selling trinkets and driving taxis, where the country folk herd goats and manage small farms. We hardly passed any motorized vehicles, only a few horse drawn carts, but mostly everyone walked. Nobody was empty handed though, even young girls carried at least a sibling on their back. Women with large fabric sacks full of grain on ther heads, sticks/ kindling bundles strapped to their backs. Some men with very heavy packs on their heads. Goat herders everywhere, bringing their flock to and from the slaughter stations (which were managed by a guy with a knife and stone slab on the side of the road.) Chickens for processing.
This country side was very beautiful, steep hills and ravenes everywhere. One room huts positioned on even the most narrow hill tops with barely a couple feet to the drop off on either side of the house. These steep hills did not stop them from farming though, we saw crops being processed or grown at a 30 angle slopes. The huts were built from sticks into the ground and mud/dung plaster gluing it all together. Some people painted sweet amature drawings around the walls of their homes. The wealthy had thatched roofs, others just scrap metal pieces. The thatching is their form of air conditioning. Most had stick fences around just to keep out the wandering goats.
Arriving Wonchi we were welcomed by crowds of people gathering to see the whitees. We ate first then ventured down the road. Kids followed us down striking up conversation in sparse english. "You American?" "I'm in school" "you give money for books?" "you have pen?" They offered branches to dust our feet or mules to ride on. I learned thank you in Amharic, amesege'nallo'. The valley was full and lush like something out of Jurassic Park. We passed two mills, a few kids bathing in the springs and even spotted a black and white monkey. At the bottom it was too marshy to walk so we rode the muels to the lake, where we then boated to the island. There was a monastary at the top of the hill on the island but closed for the season.
This life was so peaceful, I could do this. I think. I always have had a secret dream to get marooned on an island and have to provide for myself. Make my own house, clothes, food etc. It doesn't seem too hard having observed this life here. :) Well I'm sure my ignorant passion can runnaway with my mind. But the reality is I have chosen my life and I am happy at the direction it is going. However my heart has been touched too many to just stand aside and not do anything about so much poverty in the world. Not that I'm out to rescue everyone, but I left Ethiopia with some new goals and I am setting out to accomplish them. Thanks Ethiopia for such an eye openning adventure.
Soncran, our baby elephant
